Exoten auf der Bergweide

Die Neukirchner Bergbauernfamilie Vorderegger hält neben Fleckvieh und Pinzgauern auch Wagyu-Rinder auf ihrem Hof. Die Rasse stammt aus Japan, ihr Fleisch gilt als eines der teuersten vom Rind. Von Kollegen werde er deswegen noch immer etwas belächelt, sagt Peter Vorderegger junior, der vor sechs Jahren mit der Zucht begonnen hat.

Eine enge, steile Straße schlängelt sich hinauf zum Bergerhof auf 1.200 Meter Seehöhe, hoch über Neukirchen. Auf den Feldern blüht der Löwenzahn, die Kirschbäume tragen prächtige Blüten. Die umliegenden Berggipfel sind noch vom Schnee bedeckt. Ein Idyll – nur etwas gestört von der nebenan verlaufenden Lifttrasse.

Die Landwirtschaft blickt hier auf eine sehr lange Tradition zurück. Das denkmalgeschützte, mittlerweile unbewohnte Bauernhaus existiert seit 1558. „Die Vordereggers lassen sich hier bis Anfang des 17. Jahrhunderts zurückverfolgen“, sagt Altbauer Peter Vorderegger.

Die Rinder grasen auf den saftigen Wiesen oberhalb des Betriebsgeländes. Gut 50 Stück Milchvieh halten die Vordereggers. Eine beachtliche Anzahl für einen Bergbauernhof. Neben den konventionellen Rassen Fleckvieh und Pinzgauer finden sich einige Exoten auf dem Hof, sogenannte Wagyu-Rinder. 16 Stück besitzt Peter Vordereggers Sohn, ebenfalls Peter. Demnächst soll es wieder Nachwuchs geben. Vier Kühe sind trächtig. Die Zucht erfolgt über künstliche Befruchtung mit Embryonen. Ausgetragen werden sie von reinrassigen Pinzgauer Kühen, wie der Jungbauer erklärt. Bekannt sind diese Tiere auch als Kobe-Rinder – wobei es sich beim Begriff Kobe um eine geografisch geschützte Angabe handelt, der ihrer Herkunftsregion in Japan entspricht. Daher werden die Rinder in Europa als Wagyu bezeichnet – aus dem Japanischen „Wa“ für Japan und „Gyu“ für Rind. In Österreich fristet die Zucht dieser Rasse noch ein Nischendasein. Derzeit gibt es rund 350 Wagyu-Rinder. In Salzburg sind es etwa 50, verteilt auf zehn Betriebe.

Seit rund sechs Jahren beschäftigt sich Peter Vorderegger junior intensiv mit der Wagyu-Zucht. „Ein Stammgast in meiner Skihütte am Wildkogel aus einer deutschen Partnergemeinde von Neukirchen hat mich auf die Idee gebracht

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. Der züchtet schon seit gut 20 Jahren Wagyus. Ich habe dann zu überlegen begonnen und mich entschlossen, es zu probieren. Mit der Befruchtung hat es eigentlich auf Anhieb geklappt.“

Dass die Zucht exotischer Rinderrassen in der Kollegenschaft nicht nur auf Gegenliebe stößt, liegt fast auf der Hand – auch weil das Pinzgauer Rind hier heimisch ist. „Es ist nach wie vor sehr schwierig – wie das eben ist, wenn man etwas Neues probiert. Ich werde immer noch oft belächelt. Auch der Vater war anfangs auch nicht so begeistert. Er hat aber mittlerweile eingesehen, dass da was drin ist“, sagt Peter Vorderegger junior.

In der Haltung sind die Wagyus nicht aufwendiger als andere Rassen. „Sie sind problemlose Tiere, besonders bei der Fütterung. Dafür wachsen sie nur sehr langsam. Bis ein Wagyu ausgewachsen ist, dauert es dreieinhalb bis vier Jahre – daher kommt auch die gute Fleischqualität“, erzählt der Vater. Dadurch erklärt sich auch der Preis. Das Fleisch der Wagyus gilt als das mitunter teuerste Rind-Fleisch der Welt. 180 Euro kostet das Kilogramm Filet vom Bergerbauern. „Wobei das noch vergleichsweise günstig ist. Andere verlangen bis zu 400 Euro für das Kilogramm Filet“, sagt der 32-jährige Jungbauer. Hauptabnehmer sind bei den Vordereggers Privatpersonen.

„Bei der gehobenen Gastronomie ist der Preisdruck das Problem. Man muss ständig verhandeln. Da sind mir Privatkunden lieber.“ Das Geschäft mit dem Fleisch entwickle sich gut. „Mit der Nachfrage bin ich sehr zufrieden, es wird gut angenommen. Vier bis fünf Bestellungen haben wir in der Woche, auch wenn sich das vielleicht nicht viel anhört.“ Auch bei Firmen sei das Fleisch für Betriebsfeiern beliebt. Der Vertrieb erfolgt seit letztem August großteils über das Internet. Zu anderen Fleischwaren bietet der Bergerbauer auch Würstel und Speck an. Die Reste, die nicht mehr in den Verkauf gehen, verwertet Peter Vorderegger junior auf seiner Skihütte.

Doch wofür auf eine exotische Rasse setzen, wenn auch heimische Rinder hervorragende und günstigere Produkte liefern? Peter Vorderegger: „Es ist bekannt, dass es das beste Fleisch der Welt ist
. Es ist zart, die extreme Marmorierung (Fettstruktur, Anm. d. Red.) und der Geschmack sind einzigartig. Warum kauft einer einen Ferrari und keinen VW-Bus?“

Thomas Sendlhofer

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